We cross the Zaris pass which also is breath taking and when we get through the pass we see sand dunes in the distance. Malven tells us more about the large socialable weaver nests and how their nests can last for 80 years, Or how if they become to heavy and the tree branches will snap under their weight and the weavers will just start to build over, or how they may combust from the heat and the bird feces inside. The pictures will show you how big these nests become, it is truly amazing how these little birds carry out such a feat and all live together. The nests have all individual rooms, kind of like a bird condo! The openings of each condo have long dry grass hanging over it to poke snakes and try to keep them out.
We stay 2 nights at Hammerstein Lodge it is situated on c19, 100 km from Maltahohe and only 60 km from Sesriem the gate to the beautiful Sossusvlei. A few kilometres from the lodge, rocky outcrops of massive granite boulders conjure up visions of a giants playground. It is from one of this boulders - an enormous rock shaped like a hammer - the "Hammerstein", the German name of the form was derived. This evening we arrive to some friendly stringbok grazing on the grass. We saw a ton of springbok in the wild but trying to get that perfect picture proved to be challenging. Here they grazed among the outdoor patio. That evening three of us went for a very interesting walk with one of the staff. He took us into an enclosure and we all looked at each other. Judy, Michele (one of our travel companions from Australia) and myself, we had no idea what was in this enclosure but whatever it was we couldn't find it. It was a huge enclosure and finally he told us it was a Caracal. A What? A cat similar to a lynx, seriously, we are in an enclosure with an wild cat who doesn't know us and we can't find him. That was pretty tense. The three of us stayed pretty close to our staff member. He kept saying its ok They know him. Oh great now there are more than one and they don't know us. Well we finally look in this rock den and there is one. He takes one look at us and starts hissing. He was not happy. We take a few pictures and continue to look for the next one. Finally I spot her under a bush. She too is not interested in being approached but as we are taking pictures we notice the male one has come out of the rock and is sitting close by watching us. Lets just say we were glad to get out of that enclosure. Oh by the way they call them Romeo and Juliet but are thinking of renaming them because they have yet to reproduce and no one has even seen them together. Romeo was killing livestock and instead of killing him he was brought there. Juliet was a orphan.
He takes us to the next enclose but this one he says we can't go inside or even come near fence because Lisa the leopard is very dangerous. Only one person can go into enclosure and that is owners son who raised her from a baby when her mother was killed. She was raised In The house until she was 4 by the boy who at that time was 10. He is the only one she will let into enclosure. They are working at releasing her into the wild.
The third enclosure was 2 cheetahs. Oscar and Wild. We were able to go inside and walk with these magnificent creatures. Our guide told us the if we were lucky and Wild was in a good mood we maybe able to pet her but it all depended on her mood. We just waited to see what they did. But once inside they followed u, first Oscar. Wild was way on other side on a high wall. She watched from a distance and then slowing made her way over. The quide took his time and then tried to extend his hand to touch his head but jumped back. Second attempt was successful. He pet her for a while and she started to purr loudly. He then called us over to pet her. It was pretty nerve racking but we all did it and then she started to lick us. She was pretty relaxed. On leaving our guide says don't tell anyone he let us pet her! Really! Guess it was dangerous! Well we all survived and was an amazing experience.
Next morning we wake up early, before sunrise, to visit the worlds highest sand dunes at Sossusvlei and Deadviel. These dunes, which can reach heights of over 300m are absolutely spectacular. The best pictures are at sunrise plus the heat here is unbearable so in order to climb the dunes and walk into see Deadviel we must go as early as possible. We get to the gate at Sossusllei and line up with all the other vehicles waiting for the sunrise and the gate to be opened. There are some that stay within the park that will beat us to the dunes. The sand is so hot that you must wear socks and shoes or you will for sure get blisters and burns on you feet. I understood this immediately as I stood for a few minutes in Dubai on a dune and got sand in my sandals and my feet were burning.
The pictures of sunrise here at the gate were breathtaking. We saw hot air balloons on the horizon. We made our way to dune 45 which is one of the most famous dunes. It is the largest and one that you are able to climb. We take some pictures as the shadows are postcard quality at this moment but don't stop to climb as we want to make it to Deadviel, (Deadvalley) before it gets to hot. We transfer to 4 by 4 vehicles to get us as close as we can then continue by foot. This area is a valley that once was a lake during flood season but over the years the sand dunes have cut off the water supply all together and now there is only a dead valley. It took us about an hr to walk in, it was already 35 degrees and it was only 8am. The Deadviel was just like all the pictures and postcards we have seen and we had to walk up some very high dunes and over and Down into the valley. Our shoes are full of sand, we are sweating. We stop for pictures and to empty our shoes and drink lots of water. Not sure if I mentioned that we buy 5 litre water bottles. We carry smaller ones that we refill. Usually go through 5 litres in a day and a half.
We take some fabulous pictures, rest before making the return walk.
Did I say it is unbareable hot!!! Well it is!!
We do stop at dune 45 and some make the attempt to climb it. By this time it is mid day very hot and we are exhausted. I was so excited to do it in the am but now a migraine prevents me from attempting it. A few venture out but the only one that makes it to the top is Judy and our guide Malven.
We leave the dunes and head to the Sesriem which is a canyon. It is just 15 minutes from the Sossusvlei park gate. We have lunch there, truck side. Then walk down into the canyon, this is because it is dry season. Once we got down to the bottom it was nice and cool but the walk back up was very warm. I have to say, I did not feel very comfortable down there. Looks like pieces of large rocks could fall at any time.
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